There are towns where you slow down by a gear the moment you've parked. Baden-Baden is one of them. From Karlsruhe it takes a little over half an hour, and the evening still feels like a small journey.
I had a late lunch at Rizzi, in the Palais Gagarin, right in the park of the Lichtentaler Allee. Whenever I'm in Baden-Baden I order the same thing there, and it is still the best I know: the beef tenderloin. I've often wondered whether one is allowed to stay loyal to a dish. Here, yes. Around two o'clock is the loveliest time to eat, the tables empty, the staff are unhurried, and the light falls slantwise through the trees. I stayed seated for a long time and did nothing but taste. Anyone who rushes lunch usually rushes everything else too.
Right after that directly to Roomers on Lange Straße. The entrance is two enormous church portals, and you walk in as if you had an appointment that doesn't exist. There is no classic reception desk, only tables where you check in as if you were sitting with friends. Up on the roof is the bar with the pool, lit in the evening, the rooftops of the town below and the Black Forest as a dark edge beyond. It's a good place to sit. You are not inspected, you are looked after, and I value that difference a great deal.
Afterwards I walked to the Kurhaus, through the spa gardens, which are surprisingly quiet at night. I was determined to see the casino, and just as determined not to play. I have no time for gambling, least of all when it's meant to be fun. If you want to burn money, there are faster ways. The rooms, on the other hand, are worth a visit: styled after French royal palaces, heavy chandeliers, carpets that swallow every sound. Marlene Dietrich is said to have called it the most beautiful casino in the world, and I can see why.
I ordered a drink and watched the others play. A gentleman asked whether I wouldn't like to give my luck a chance. I smiled and told him my luck tonight was the glass in my hand. He took it with humour. In Baden-Baden you can say no very well without anyone losing the mood.
Why I'm writing this down: for me, a good evening is not a question of stakes. It needs time, a beautiful place and the freedom not to be rushed. That is why every meeting at PURE begins with at least two hours. If you love Baden-Baden, you'll understand what I mean. If you are planning an evening there, here are our ladies for Baden-Baden. And if you prefer a bigger city, my favourite places in Stuttgart are in Hotel Bars in Stuttgart.
Discreetly yours,
Lena